The Ultimate Guide to Alocasia Care: From Beginner to Pro Plant Parent

Alocasias, with their striking, heart-shaped leaves and dramatic personalities, are the divas of the houseplant world. They’re bold, beautiful, and (once you get the hang of them) surprisingly rewarding to care for. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know to help your Alocasia thrive.

What Makes Alocasia’s So Special?

Native to the rainforests of Southeast Asia and Australia, Alocasias are as exotic as they look. Known as Elephant Ears or African Mask Plants (even though they’re not African, go figure), these tropical perennials come in many varieties, each with its own quirks. For instance, the Alocasia Dragon's Breath tolerates low light, while the Variegated Frydek thrives in bright indirect light. Despite their reputation for being a little fussy, most Alocasias share similar care requirements. Once you master their preferences, they’ll reward you with steady growth and gorgeous foliage.

Light Needs: Bright, Indirect, and Balanced

Alocasias love bright, indirect light—it’s the sweet spot that keeps them happy. While varieties like Dragon's Breath can tolerate low light, brighter conditions will promote stronger growth and bigger leaves. Personally, I've found that using Sansi grow lights works wonders for my plants. I use the Sansi Full Spectrum 2-Gooseneck with Timer, and it's been a game-changer. One of my favorite features is their lifetime free bulb replacement for any quality-related issues, which really shows they stand by their products.

For variegated Alocasias, like the Variegated Frydek, bright light is even more essential. Those pale, white patches don’t contain chlorophyll, so they need extra energy from sunlight to stay healthy. If your Alocasia seems droopy or sluggish, try moving it closer to a bright window with filtered light.

If you're interested in the Sansi grow light or any other of my plant care recommendations, you can check out the link here.

Soil vs. Semi-Hydroponics: Which is Better?

Here’s a debate that divides plant parents: Should you grow your Alocasia in soil or go the semi-hydroponics route? I’ve tried both, and while soil works fine for many people, I’ve had far more success with semi-hydro setups.

• Semi-Hydroponics: Using a substrate like LECA or Soil Ninja’s semi-hydro mix (plus their slow-release fertiliser) has been a game-changer for me. It provides excellent drainage and reduces the risk of root rot.

• Soil: If you prefer soil, create a mix that drains exceptionally well. Combine potting soil with orchid bark, perlite, and worm castings. Alocasias hate soggy roots, so a chunky, airy mix is a must.

Watering Alocasias: Avoiding Root Rot Drama

Alocasias like consistent moisture, but they hate soggy soil. Think of it this way: They prefer to sip, not chug.

Allow the top 2–3 inches of soil to dry out between waterings.

If you’re using semi-hydro, simply monitor the water level in the reservoir and top up as needed. Alocasias are better at recovering from being under watered than overwatered. If you’re unsure, err on the side of caution!

Humidity Matters: How to Mimic the Rainforest

As rainforest natives, Alocasias thrive in high humidity—ideally 60% or higher. But let’s be realistic: no home (especially in the UK) is that humid, and honestly, it’s not great for your house either! You can invest in a good humidifier, although I’ve never bought one myself.

Other options? Pebble trays! Just place your plant on top of a tray filled with water and pebbles. (I used to add a few drops of neem oil to mine when I had a terrible fungus gnat infestation—trust me, it stinks, but it works.)

While Alocasias can survive in average indoor humidity, upping the moisture will help keep their leaves lush and vibrant..

Fertilising Your Alocasia: Keep them Well-Fed

Alocasias are heavy feeders, so don’t skimp on the fertiliser. I fertiliser mine year-round (yes, even in winter) with a seaweed-based liquid fertiliser diluted according to the instructions. If you’re into DIY, you can even make your own seaweed fertiliser—though fair warning, it’s not for the faint of heart (or nose). For semi-hydro setups, I rely on Soil Ninja’s Slow-Release Fertiliser mixed into the substrate. Easy peasy!

Propagation: How to propagate Alocasia Corms

Alocasias make it easy to expand your plant family. They produce corms- small growths near the roots- that can be propagated into new plants. Before removing the corms, ensure that they are at least a penny size, and are firm, not squishy. If they are really small, they will be too weak and probably not grow very well. 

1. Gently remove the corms from the mother plant.

2. Place them in moist perlite, sphagnum moss (mixed with perlite), or even semi-hydro.

3. Keep them in a warm, humid environment (a prop box works wonders) until they sprout.

4. Be patient—these babies take time!

Repotting Alocasia: When and How to Do it

Alocasias prefer being slightly root-bound, so don’t rush to repot them. I usually wait until the roots are peeking out of the drainage holes before upsizing their pot. When you do repot, choose a pot only slightly larger—too much space can overwhelm the plant.

Clear nursery pots are my go-to because they let me monitor root health and ensure proper drainage. Slip the nursery pot into a decorative ceramic or Elho pot for a polished look.

Troubleshooting Common Alocasia Problems

Yellowing leaves:

• Possible Causes: Overwatering, underwatering, low light, or being root-bound. (Yes, it could be any of these. Welcome to plant parenting.)

• Fix: Check the roots for signs of rot or overcrowding. Adjust your watering routine and move the plant to a brighter spot if needed.
  Leaf drop

• Why It Happens: Alocasias are dramatic, and shedding old leaves to make room for new ones is part of their process. However, sudden leaf loss could mean they’re adjusting to a new environment or need more nutrients.

Droopy or Shrivelled Leaves

• Possible Causes: Thirst, hunger, or low light.

• Fix: Water it, feed it, and move it to a brighter spot. Sometimes it’s all three. Sometimes droopy leaves can also mean the plant is adjusting to the new environment or fighting pests. Inspect the leaves an stems for signs of bugs.

• Are Alocasias hard to care for?

  Once you understand their needs, they are surprisingly manageable! But some can be very fussy; I wouldn’t class them as a beginner plant.

• Are Alocasias toxic to pets?

  Unfortunately, yes. They contain calcium oxalates, which can cause serious issues for cats and other pets. Keep them out of reach or opt for pet-safe plants instead.

• How long to Alocasias live?

  With proper care, these plants can live for decades. Keep up with repotting and diving and you’ll have a lifelong companion!